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A Law is to Break - Italian Appellations: love 'em, ignore 'em
By: Jennifer Rosen	<< back   Page 2 of 2

Yet they have nothing to fear from me. I don’t want to out producers—I’m on their side. If consumers want lush, purple, and—yes—delicious wine, you either make it or go out of business. Following the letter of the appellation would be suicide akin to playing major league baseball without steroids.

So, if a touch of Cabernet makes better Brunello, why not change the law? “Impossible!” comes the collective gasp. Yet the origin of current appellations was a pretty haphazard process: functionaries traveled the country, noted how regional wines were made, and declared them official. It’s not like they were chiseled in stone by God or Fred Flintstone.

But I’m forgetting: this is Italy, where everyone wants a speed limit but no one drives it. Where stupid laws are meant for breaking and a good Catholic can lie, swear, and wander into church when he damn well gets around to it. You got a problem with that?

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